venta: (Default)
[personal profile] venta
So, for some time we've had the concept of the burger league tables. There is a Premier League, for quality burgers, and a Vauxhall Conference[*] for the also-rans. The likes of McDonalds aren't even allowed to play.

I thought I'd written up more of the investigative burger-eating trips here, but it seems that to date I've only had one post tagged "burger league". This surprises me. At present there's a bit of a backlog of recommended new burger bars in London to get through; I need to eat more burgers.

I don't think the league tables have fundamentally altered since that last post - though I'm fairly sure that we permitted Haché (recommended by [livejournal.com profile] phlebas) to join the Premier League. GBK has of late rewritten its menu in such a way that it sells almost all the same things it used to, but in a way that seems much less exciting; the burgers are still good, but I don't hold it in quite the same affection these days. It's the most convenient quality burger emporium for where I (now) live, but I'm actually not sure when I was last there.

Anyway, popping over to Oxford to visit [livejournal.com profile] wimble, one of his suggested eateries was Atomic Burger on Cowley Road. Everything seems to be changing all the time on the Cowley Road at the moment; for those who aren't quite keeping up Atomic Burger is approximately nextdoor to what used to be Gashi Gashi. Apparently it's been there a couple of years.

We rolled up, could we have a table? We could not, they were full, could we come back in an hour? With the most excellent James Street Tavern just round the corner, we certainly could. Again, for those not keeping up, the JST (which used to be great and then became rubbish) has stopped being rubbish and become great again. If you can't choose between their large array of excellent handpumps, they'll do you three 1/3-pint tasters for the price of the cheapest pint. Done.

The inside of Atomic Burger looks rather like someone blew up Forbidden Planet and then stacked the debris back together. Wombles snuggle up to Daleks. C3PO keeps a watchful eye on DangerMouse and Spiderman. Thunderbirds and Sindy dolls and Lego models vie for space. Godzilla looms out of one wall, there is a huge Batman logo, and most surfaces that aren't mirrored are covered in comics. By the time I'd picked up my collectible sticker-album-menu and sat down I was already disposed to fall in love with the place.

The menu is largely full of named burgers - you can have a Johnny Cash, or a Cheech & Chong, or a Jake & Elwood (each is marked out of ten for tenuousness, geekiness and fear). I eventually ordered a Frito Bandito (not significantly geeky, tenuous or scary): a beef burger with guacamole, sour cream, cheese and nachos in it.

The price of a burger includes a side order, making it noticeably cheaper than the likes of GBK (two burgers, two sides of fries, one terrifying thick milkshake with popping candy in it and a bottle of Samuel Adams for <£25). And the fries are actually very good (although the "sci-fries" with garlic and chilli would have defeated me - Wimble is more of a man than I am and ate them without flinching.)

And the burgers? Well.. good bun, with decent structural integrity. Nice toppings, and definitely plausible burgers. I'm not sure the burgers are legally quite Premier League material (and they don't offer any option on how you want them cooked - or not cooked, in my case) but they're clearly a superior offering. I wouldn't be comfortable consigning them to the Conference. I think at least a few visits from the Review Board are in order.

I did manage to perch myself with my back to the TV screen, which was showing snippets of 80s kids shows, cult films and sci-fi oldies. I don't do well with large screens, tending to stare vacantly at them over people's shoulders. Instead I enjoyed the slapdash assortment of music - Wimble noted that a surprising amount of the time various characters, puppets, Cylons, etc onscreen appeared to be lip-synching to the music. As we left, Gonzo was cheerfully singing along to Step On.

[*] Yes, I know it really hasn't been called that for a very long time now.

Date: 2012-12-13 11:50 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bopeepsheep.livejournal.com
Oh, we LOVE Atomic. They have a pizza place further up Cowley Road too (used to be La Cappanina, opposite the University & City Arms).

Date: 2012-12-13 11:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Yes, [livejournal.com profile] wimble mentioned you were a fan (citing jelly-planning as an example of why they were a good thing). Atomic Pizza was also mentioned... though the waitress confused me because apparently La Cappanina was called something else in between (?Fratellis?) and I didn't recognise the name.

I'm pretty sure that I don't want that pub to be called that, either. What was it before? A Firkin of some kind, at some point?

Date: 2012-12-13 11:57 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bopeepsheep.livejournal.com
Heh. They know us quite well in there - when I had my surgery 2 years ago [livejournal.com profile] narenek went to get me a burger as part of my recuperation and I got a special little pot of their chilli sauce as a 'get well' present from the owner. :D

Fratelli's is Atomic Pizza, yes. U&C always used to be U&C, then it became a Firkin, and then I think reverted around the time the Cape of Good Hope did. I can't remember which Firkin it was because mostly I refuse to acknowledge those names. :D

Edited Date: 2012-12-13 11:57 am (UTC)

Date: 2012-12-13 12:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Ah, OK. I don't remember it in its pre-Firkin days. I think it was perhaps the Philosopher &.

I remember reading an article in a Sunday paper years ago about how dreadful it was that pubs with interesting names were being taken over and renamed in a dull way. I'd have been right behind the guy except his prime example was how the beautifully-named Philanderer & Firkin had "presumably out of political correctness" been disgracefully turned into the "boring" Jericho Tavern. Which made me froth a little as I did remember that one changing to a Firkin.

The Fuggle & Firkin - which I still absent-mindedly call the Brewhouse - appears to be the Red Lion at the moment, having been (at least) The Goose in between. And the Gloc isn't the Gloc any more!

I'm starting to think I should set up a wiki for keeping track :)

Date: 2012-12-14 08:53 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] undyingking.livejournal.com
It was quite a townie pub (ironically) in its pre-Philosopher days: didn't go in there much at all back then.
(I bet there already si a wiki somewhere…)

Date: 2012-12-14 11:02 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Yes - when [livejournal.com profile] mrlloyd and Felix lived up Southfield Rd I went into whatever that pub was called then a couple of times, and I'm pretty sure it was still quite townie.
Edited Date: 2012-12-14 11:03 am (UTC)

Date: 2012-12-15 02:57 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] octalbunny.livejournal.com
It might be possible to mine Open Street Map for pub name changes. Of course that won't always include their proper names (which as well established is defined as the name they had when we were drinking there).

Date: 2012-12-13 12:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] huskyteer.livejournal.com
Oh wow, that sounds...well, 'out of this world'. Especially the popping candy milkshake and the sci-fries.

Date: 2012-12-13 12:05 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
It's excellent - I'm very keen to go back.

The milkshake was of the thick kind that makes your ears hurt - and the popping candy was definitely an experience everyone should have (though possibly only once ;) And they'll do floats if you're ordering pop, too.

Date: 2012-12-13 12:08 pm (UTC)
ext_44: (bowtie)
From: [identity profile] jiggery-pokery.livejournal.com
I'm probably more curious than I should be to know in which league Pepper's of Walton Street finds itself.

Date: 2012-12-13 12:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
I've only been to Peppers once, about a million years ago. People always raved about it, and when I got there, I couldn't see why - the burgers seemed to me to be very similar to the sort you'd get sold out of the back of a van in B&Q's carpark. Sure, they had an interesting range of toppings but the burgers themselves seemed like utter crap.

Whether something weird was going on, I have no idea, since it really wasn't the experience I expected at all!
Edited Date: 2012-12-13 12:13 pm (UTC)

Date: 2012-12-13 12:16 pm (UTC)
ext_44: (9diamonds)
From: [identity profile] jiggery-pokery.livejournal.com
Hmmm. As one of those Pepper's ravers, perhaps we should categorise it as "beleaguered" and leave it at that.

Date: 2012-12-13 12:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
I'm not sure - I think it might be just me! This was back in the days before the concept of the "gourmet" burger really existed - at least in my world (let's guess at '97-'98) - and before the league table was dreamed of. Certainly I was in the company of such ravers, and they didn't seem to feel anything was untoward that particular evening.

I think I'd have to make another visit to give it a formal classification.

Date: 2012-12-14 11:09 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sea-of-flame.livejournal.com
Given that people had fervent loyalties towards specific kebab vans at that time, I'm not sure that raving about a burger place was necessarally a guide to gourmet ;)

Date: 2012-12-14 11:11 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
No fair, there are good and bad kebabs! I concede none of Oxford's kebab vans were really a gourmet experience, but they did vary quite a lot.

(Ahmed's otuside Univ, for me, please ;)
Edited Date: 2012-12-14 11:18 am (UTC)

Date: 2012-12-13 01:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bateleur.livejournal.com
Speaking of things which used to be on Cowley Road, did you ever have a burger at Fat Jack's?

They used to do very nice chilli-cheeseburgers. If I'm being strictly objective, the actual burgers were at best 8/10, but since nowhere else before or since seems to have the faintest idea what chilli cheeseburgers are supposed to be like they came out way ahead of the pack overall.

(Also, they sold alcoholic milkshakes. Also, their spicy chips were very good.)

Date: 2012-12-13 01:47 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Hmm. I don't think I even remember a Fat Jack's, whereabouts was it?

Atomic do certainly offer both chilli (beef or veggie) and cheese as toppings for burgers. I'm uncertain as to what exactly a chilli-cheeseburger should be like, so don't know whether you could construct one there.

Date: 2012-12-13 01:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bateleur.livejournal.com
Right next to Bosnia, so just slightly further out of town than East Avenue.

Date: 2012-12-13 01:57 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bateleur.livejournal.com
(Closed in the mid 90s)

Date: 2012-12-13 02:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Ah, that'll be why then :)

I'm not sure if I was present in Oxford when Bosnia existed, but I certainly didn't know any of you then!

Date: 2012-12-13 01:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ghoti.livejournal.com
I am very pleased with this post, mostly because when I started to read it, I thought 'I wonder what she thinks of Atomic Burger' and lo, you proceeded to tell me :) (It's one of B's favourites, I love it, J is indifferent and I don't think C's been there)

Date: 2012-12-13 01:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Wait, hang on, are you in Oxford? If you're just visiting that's probably ok. If you live there I may need to update my mental map of the world.

Date: 2012-12-13 02:51 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ghoti.livejournal.com
No, my lovely ex moved to Oxford a couple of years ago. I'm still in Cambridge.

Date: 2012-12-13 02:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] zenithed.livejournal.com
Gosh, that sounds terribly exciting. Shall have to see if I can find an excuse to head back Cowley Road way.

I've heard good things of the Big Dirty Burger van which visits the Camden Town Brewery in Kentish Town. Confusingly this isn't the same as the Dirty Burger van which is based just round the corner.

Date: 2012-12-13 02:51 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
It is exciting! What with the James Street Tavern, Atomic, the rather large G&Ds that opened a few years ago, and the Truck Store you could practically go for a day out on that bit of Cowley Road, and still pop into Gameskeeper on the way home.

Hmm. I have not met the Big Dirty Burger van. But if it hangs out in a brewery, what's not to like?

/me adds it to the list.

Date: 2012-12-13 02:57 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] zenithed.livejournal.com
Where does The Diner fit into your thinking? I think they're the most reliably decent burgers I've found in London, but they're still not a patch on Grubbs in Brighton.

The lack of affordable quality takeaway burgers in London (brown bag and all) makes me sad.

Date: 2012-12-13 02:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
The Diner has not yet impinged on my consciousness at all, tell me of it!

One of the reasons I was so happy about Atomic was because it is only the second non-large-chain place to make it into the league (the other is The Natural Burger Co., which is in St John's Wood). If there are stacks of independent burger joints all over town, I wanna know!

Date: 2012-12-13 06:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kauket.livejournal.com
The Diner is pretty good and if you want to test it out, come over to N1 and we'll go out for dinner with you?

I'll be interested to see if you make it into MeatLiquor and what it's like.
http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/venue/2%3A30725/meat-liquor

Date: 2012-12-13 06:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kauket.livejournal.com
Oh and in other news, we're going to Nuisance at the Camden Monarch on Friday 21st if you fancy a Britpop night?

Date: 2012-12-13 10:33 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Oh, bother! I would very much like a Britpop night, but I've got something on on that Friday already. But thank you for asking!

Date: 2012-12-13 10:35 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Yes, MeatLiquor (despite the rather unappealing name) is on the to-do list already. Definitely like to come up to N1 and experiment with your local place, though - maybe in January when everyone's stopped being a headless turkey?

Date: 2012-12-13 11:25 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kauket.livejournal.com
Yup, sounds good :)

Date: 2012-12-13 06:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kauket.livejournal.com
We should go to Grubbs on the 23rd or 24th...

Date: 2012-12-13 05:48 pm (UTC)
lnr: (Icknield Way)
From: [personal profile] lnr
GBK is an odd one - Mike and I discovered it randomly on a back street in London one time and it was *amazing* - but then one turned up in Cambridge and it just wasn't anywhere near as good, so much so that I don't think we've been back.

Mind you even CB2 which does one of my favourite burgers has been less good than it used to be of late. (It wouldn't really belong in the league though, as it's not a burger place per se).

Atomic sounds like a place well worth visiting next time I'm in Oxford.

Ta for the Blondie ear-worm :)

Date: 2012-12-13 05:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Yes, only burger places as such are allowed in the league. For a while our local pub did a pretty good burger, but it wasn't allowed in.

Burgers are actually, I think, quite tricky to get right. I've eaten home made burgers that have been made entirely out of good-quality nice-things, but have come out barely ok.

Date: 2012-12-13 09:42 pm (UTC)
pm215: (dragon)
From: [personal profile] pm215
On the other hand I think they're aren't often unedibly badly wrong, which is part of the reason why they're my standard "first jetlagged evening at a conference somewhere" food in the hotel bar or restaurant...

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