venta: (Default)
[personal profile] venta
Regular readers will know that I trundle off to Glastonbury every year to frolic among the madness and mayhem. Except this year, Glastonbury had no festival for me to frolic at. Nothing daunted, ChrisC and I headed up to the Edinburgh Fringe to do some frolicking there instead.

It was all arranged rather at short notice[*] - in the fortnight beforehand, we found a flat, booked some train tickets, and were off. Oddly, the train tickets were the hardest part. A first class ticket Darlington->Edinburgh was but £26 online. Excellent, we'll have two! Oh no, two first class tickets will be £108. OK, can we have that first class ticket at £26, and that other one at £35? No. Buying one causes the other to cease existing. Thanks, East Coast Main Line, with this transparent pricing system you are really spoiling us. The journey coming south was harder to book. We wanted one ticket Edinburgh->London and one ticket Edinburgh->Darlington and we wanted to sit together. This is an astronomically ridiculous concept, the like of which cannot be countenanced by any of the online ticket-booking systems. In the end we went manually to the station, where the system reduced the booking clerk to using words he really shouldn't use in front of members of the public.

Anyway, we made it. We located the estate agents, they gave us keys, we located a flat. Then we sat and wondered how it is you actually do this Edinburgh thing anyway. For those who've never been: the programme is thick. Like, thick as an Argos catalogue. And small print. There is a lot of stuff on. No, really. More than that.

We'd decided early on that booking tickets to see just "big-name" comedians whom we could easily see doing touring shows in London wasn't cricket. Also: expensive. Which meant trawling through lists of shows we knew nothing about looking for good stuff. Which is a bit like looking for hay in a haystack, when you can't tell whether it's nice hay or not once you've found it.

ChrisC's good idea was to go to Chortle: Fast Fringe as our first show. Ten comedians presented rapid-fire style for a few minutes each. If anyone sucked, they'd go away soon and if anyone was great, we could check our their show. The first trial was to find the venue. In the Pleasance, said the programme. OK, we thought, and headed into town.

The Pleasance is a road in Edinburgh. It's also the name of a venue. By which I mean the umbrella name given to 27 venues all in (approximately) the same place. We found the Pleasance. We narrowed it down to being a show in the Pleasance Dome. Where was it, we asked? Do you mean the King Dome, the Queen Dome, the Ace Dome, the Jack Dome... we got there in the end.

(Incidentally, the Pleasance Courtyard names its venues prepositionally: Pleasance Behind, Pleasance Above, Pleasance Below... When searching for a show later in the week ChrisC described it as being in the Pleasance Round The Back Somewhere and I initially thought he was referring to a venue by name rather than descriptively.)

We got our ten comedians; no one sucked, but no one made us want to dash madly towards their show. Except, possibly, the compere - Ed Gamble - who was very funny but pointed out that in his own show, he's the straight man in a duo and thus nothing like what we'd just seen. Still, we had a plan: ChrisC was keen to see Pappy's Last Show Ever. Ticket lady did not have a plan: that show was sold out. We sat down looking vague and confused. A student happened by and offered us a flyer to see a show half-price in that venue about six feet away. Danielle Ward doing standup? Oh, all right, she was on one of the many lists we'd made...

And thus it all began. We quite quickly evolved our routine for the day: wake up, get up, get online (hurrah for a flat with wi-fi) and find out what was cheap at the Half-Price Hut that day. Consult the A-list, the B-list, the list that hadn't quite got written down, the collection of yesterday's fliers, the vague memories of what someone had said, reviews, recommendations and the programme. Make A Plan.

At Glastonbury, we tend to have some must-see bands, and a bit of an outline, and we waft about as the humour takes us. Edinburgh shows require you to be sitting down at a certain time, in a certain place and (unless you plan to walk out) tie you up until they end. If you're aiming to pack in the shows, you need A Plan. We did muse while there that there are probably quite a lot of different ways to do this - a leisurely show or two a day, a working day followed by an evening show, a totally frantic morning-til-evening marathon.

We went for a 6-a-day average, and probably could have jammed more in if we'd been really determined. Although there doesn't seem to be a strict timetable, in general there is a show starting around half oneish, and a show starting around threeish, and so on. Every day we found the threeish and half-sevenish slots full of clashing things, yet we were often a bit at a loss for what to see in the late-night slots. So we ran around frantically in the day time, and could have crammed more things in in the evenings.

My favourite way of finding out about new shows was being handed flyers in the street. This does, of course, provide no guarantee of quality at all. However, in my capricious way I liked choosing my shows based on the creativity, and enthusiasm, of the flyer-er. I presume actual residents get heartily sick of the snow of card that assails them with each step, but for a few days I enjoyed it. I eagerly collected my shiny leaflets and arranged them on the table in our living room: must-sees went at the end near the window, don't-cares went at the other, everything else graded in between.

Our other great find was the Free Fringe. These events have no ticket price (and, except in cases where they're expected to be heavily oversubscribed, no tickets). There is usually a bucket on the way out into which you are encouraged to chuck money (they often suggest a fiver, but usually temper it by suggesting "what you can afford" or "what you think the show is worth"). Some of our hot contenders for favourite show were on the Free Fringe; that and the Half-Price Hut prevented the show-watching frenzy from becoming prohibitively expensive.

The biggest downside of Edinburgh is the geography: the wretched place is three-dimensional. Which means hills. OK, I expected that, I was ready to dash up and down steep streets. What I wasn't ready for was the ability to glance at a map while dashing to a venue and then find yourself at the right longitude, the right latitude, and the wrong bleedin' altitude. Several times we ended up standing on (or under) bridges wondering how on earth you could get down (or up) there. ChrisC cottoned onto this slightly faster than I did, and perplexed bystanders at one point could have seen us running down from the castle only to have one of us shout "Wait! 3D city!" and abruptly reverse direction.

Actually, the biggest downside of Edinburgh was the shocking beer situation. People who read what I post to Twitter will already know that Pintwatch was disgusted. Deuchars (who make perfectly nice bitter) are one of the festival sponsors, and many festival posters announced "You're due a Deuchars". What they don't mention is that few of the venues actually sell it. Sure, they might have Deuchars-branded fridges behind the bar, but they'll be jammed with nasty cider and nasty lager[**]. However, on [livejournal.com profile] mykreeve's recommendation I discovered the Brewdog Bar, and on [livejournal.com profile] kauket's I found a lovely pub called the Holyrood, so it wasn't all bad.

In order to prevent this post becoming a monster, I'll keep my actual show reviews for a separate post. Instead, I shall review East Coast Main Line's southbound first-class rail service. It's actually rather pleasant (if booked in advance on a cheap deal, otherwise see: expensive, prohibitively). You get a proper meal made of real food, and everything. And tea, and coffee, and (despite previous failures) reasonable beer. And views of Durham Cathedral and Lindisfarne and the Angel of the North, though you get them from standard as well.

Oh, and despite claims made in the wonderful Midsummer: A Play With Songs we never once heard the 1 o'clock gun.

[*] Note for [livejournal.com profile] grahamb and [livejournal.com profile] zotz: the short notice and subsequent franticness meant I failed completely to see if you were around to meet up. My apologies.

[**] I admit the existence of nice cider, and even (very occasionally) nice lager, but this wasn't it.

Date: 2012-09-06 10:23 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kauket.livejournal.com
I look forward to reading what you saw. Probably should've said this when you were there. For comparison purposes I saw:

Excellent: Max and Ivans, Andrew O Neill, Nick Doody, Fat Kitten, Celia Pacquola, Humphrey Kerr, Stuart Goldsmith.

Good: Deborah Frances White, Lucy Cox, Domestic Science, Max and Ivans, A Chris Coltrane, Marc Burrows and Andrew O'Neill (together, being part of The Men that Will not be Blamed for Nothing), Abandoman, Richard Wiseman

Average:Jen Brister, Joel Dommett, Early Edition, Helen Keen

Bad: Preston

Walked out of: Will Hodgeson (not entirely his fault, I had work stress), Aiden Killian (all his fault, he was shocking and it was tempting to walk up and punch him before leaving), Marc Burrows, Cariad Lloyd (hate hate hate hate), Darkness Rising.

A fair amount was free fringe. I am annoyed at paying for Cariad Lloyd and Darkness Rising. Of the excellent stuff, I'd be hard pressed to pick a favourite though.

Date: 2012-09-06 10:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Wow, that's virtually no overlap - though I guess I shouldn't be surprised really, there is such a lot of Stuff. I really wanted to see The Men That Will Not Be Blamed For Nothing, but couldn't shoe-horn them in (I did see Marc Burrows solo, but due to only knowing of TMTWNBBFN by repute I hadn't realised that he was one of them. Or that Andrew O'Neill was, come to that.).

I think Domestic Science and Richard Wiseman are the only others (and I think I'd put them both in 'good', too).

I don't have a Walked Out Of category - dunno if this means I was luckier than you or just have very low standards ;)
Edited Date: 2012-09-06 10:46 pm (UTC)

Date: 2012-09-06 10:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kauket.livejournal.com
I got into the 'walking out' thing last year. Basically my tolerance for shit comedy is low and I figure that there are a hundred other shows I could be watching instead of something I'm not enjoying so I'll get out and look for something else. I'm pretty harsh about not just politely sitting there and letting the comedian get on with it whilst I think happy thoughts.

TMTWNBBFN were very very good. Still dislike Marc Burrows solo despite the show being 'indie boys guide...' which i guess is what tempted you to the horrid dingy basement under Chicquitos? ;)


Date: 2012-09-07 09:48 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Yes - when we set off to Chicquitos I had assumed it was going to be something other than the chain Mexican of that name. Having been lured in by the name, I didn't think it was a great show but I enjoyed it so was happy to stay. We also went to see Love In The Key Of Britpop based purely on the name (we're nothing if not predictable ;) and that was ace.

I guess I think of walking out as making a statement "you are so intolerably boring/bad/offensive I can't/won't stay", but if it's merely "you're not as good as something else I could be doing" it kind of makes sense.

Date: 2012-09-06 10:43 pm (UTC)
zotz: (Default)
From: [personal profile] zotz
A lot of the venues only have temporary bars. They don't ever seem to have decent drinks. Happily, there are usually good pubs nearby, but this doesn't necessarily help if you don't know the area.

I used to go to the Holyrood a lot, but these days it's more normally the Auld Hoose, just up the hill a little. Well, just up one of the hills a little, it being uphill three ways from there. We don't do badly for decent pubs, actually. Among other things, I believe we have the only gay bar in the country to make it into the Good Beer Guide.

The Pleasance is a whole load of rooms in three different buildings: The Pleasance itself is an old coaching inn on (the road) The Pleasance, and it's part of the Edinburgh University Students Association. Next door, also on the Pleasance, is the Sports Centre, part of Edinburgh University. The "Pleasance Dome" isn't on the Pleasance - it's also part of EUSA, but it's the Potterrow Union (or Mandela Centre . . . . the Nelson Mandela Mandela Centre, probably) on The Potterrow, about a quarter of a mile away.

This is not the stupidest bit of venue naming. Nor is having the now-estranged Assembly and Assembly Rooms on opposite sides of the city centre. No, the daftest one is having a venue (also in two separate buildings on two separate roads) called The Zoo.

Edinburgh doesn't have a zoo, of course. We're famous for not having a zoo. Especially not one with frigging (or, more usually, not-frigging) pandas in it. No potential for disastrous misunderstanding there at all.

Let's not mention that there are two separate free fringe organisations. That way madness lies.

Three dimensions. Yes. We like it. In this case it's exacerbated by many venues being in the vaulting under one or other of the bridges. For most other purposes it's not such a major issue.

Flyers. Yes. Can get a bit much, but mostly if you refuse to meet someone's eyes they won't bother waving one at you.

Not getting in touch isn't a capital offence, but it does mean that you're legally obliged to come back and see us sometime. I'm hoping to have a spare room again soon, which would hopefully make it easier to lure people in.

Date: 2012-09-07 09:44 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
I think I expect venues to have crap drinks, in general. However, venues which have crap drinks plus lots of massive signs advertising nice drinks are just unkind.

I used to live in Oxford, where the two main hospitals (on opposite sides of the city) were called the Radcliffe and the Radcliffe - which, as you can expect, also caused no confusion at all. I think I went to a show at The Zoo, but it was heavily advertised as "The Zoo Southside" so maybe they're learning. Oxford has demolished one of its Radcliffes in despair, I believe.

I encountered only the PBH Free Fringe, so hadn't realised there were two. Shame! Maybe there was more good free stuff I could have been watching!

Not getting in touch isn't a capital offence

Phew :) We have been saying for a while now that we fancied going to see Edinburgh - which, of course, we still haven't in any real sense done. So a trip is still planned :)

Date: 2012-09-07 08:33 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] undyingking.livejournal.com
It really is a fantastic train journey, we've done it a few times now. I think my very favourite bit might be that curving bridge over the Tweed as you come into Berwick.

Date: 2012-09-07 09:29 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tigerfort.livejournal.com
Virgin have a train-ticket booking system that will allow two people making different journeys to nonetheless get seats together; afaik they're the only company that actually allows you to choose the seat the computer books your reservation for. This is presumably why they're losing their franchise.

Date: 2012-09-07 09:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Ah! I didn't know that. They operate lines I rarely use these days (and, critically, not the East Coast Main Line).

Date: 2012-09-07 12:15 pm (UTC)
lnr: (Icknield Way)
From: [personal profile] lnr
Most train operators booking sites tend to allow you to book trains which they have nothing to do with - I just bought FCC tickets from East Coast this week :). However they do tend to offer extra discounts on their own trains - so East Coast advance tickets are 10% cheaper if you buy through East Coast than through anyone else.

Date: 2012-09-07 10:00 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] maviscruet.livejournal.com
A friend of mine pla was only to see shows that had the work sex in the description or title. It helped lure it down to a reasonable size......

Date: 2012-09-07 10:13 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Hey, they could produce themed programmes! Only shows which mention sex, only shows which mention music...

There were a few shows where I was pretty sure they'd been named purely to grab attention rather than because the name was relevant. Which is fair enough, given that you've got to stick out from thousands of others.

Date: 2012-09-07 12:16 pm (UTC)
lnr: (Icknield Way)
From: [personal profile] lnr
It sounds like a fab way to do it!

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