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Well, following discussion on [livejournal.com profile] ar_gemlad's LJ last week, ChrisC and I learned about a new posh-burger chain. We have been vaguely questing for quality burgers for some time, and have thus far developed the opinion that practically nothing lives up to GBK's standards. However, when [livejournal.com profile] secondhand_rick recommends a joint, you take the recommendation seriously...

We experimented with the Finchley Road branch of the Fine Burger Co., which hangs out with various other fooderies and a cinema in the O2 centre.

I commented at the time that the place wasn't really being judged against an arbitrary standard, it was being constantly compared to GBK. The natural corollary, of course, is that things risk criticism for being different rather than necessarily poorer.

Having realised that I couldn't have my standard burger order (rare beefburger, mozzarella, avocado) I opted for what Fine calls an Italian: mozzarella and pesto. As Secondhand_Rick had promised, they did indeed ask how I'd like my burger cooked (and they even actually cooked it rare as well). I was a little disappointed to find that the mozzarella was the yellow kind not the white kind[*], and slightly frightened of the enormous frills of lettuce protruding a long way of out the bun. The lettuce looked pretty, but I removed and ate it separately to render the burger tractable.

Fine's menu tells you lots of interesting stuff about the food and its provenance (which I approve of), including bigging up their tempura onion rings. We ordered them with high hopes, but I actually found them slightly disappointing. The batter had a thick, doughy layer beneath the crispy outside and very flaccid onion inside.

I rarely mention service in restaurants unless it's outstandingly good or outstandingly bad, simply because it tends to be something I'm not that picky about. Fine Burgers seat you, but expect you to place your orders at the bar so you'd think there's not a long to go wrong.

Our food arrived commendably promptly, and the instant ChrisC ate the last bite of his burger his plate was whisked away from him. I, eating slightly more slowly, hadn't yet finished. As the last bite of my burger neared my mouth a staff member appeared by my side and said cursorily "May I take your plate?" as he reached for it. I asked if I might be allowed to finish my chips first, and he agreed and went away.

I had assumed the guy was just over-eager, but as I scooped up my last handful of chips a different waiter appeared and snatched my plate, leaving me barely time to lunge for my napkin to wipe my greasy fingers. Half the tables were standing empty; there was no need to harry customers out the door.

So, how does it hold up to the inevitable comparison ? The burgers themselves are as good, and very well-cooked, but the range of toppings isn't as large or as interesting as GBK. And I'm still bitter about the avocados. Their buns are extremely seedy which I ordinarily regard as a good thing in bread, but I think I prefer my burger buns plain. They offer a choice of chunky chips or fries, and do onion rings, where at GBK you get chunky chips or nothing. For those who care about such things, GBK's burger range is much more extensive for vegetarians (it's also more extensive in general, though I don't hold specialisation against Fine: they do what they do well).

Pricewise it's fairly comparable, possibly slightly more expensive than I'm used to (two burgers, fries, onion rings, a Tiger beer and a banana milkshake were of the order of £27. Yes, that's expensive for burgers. But the burger you get as part of the £5 deal in Wetherspoons bears no relation at all to these burgers.)

So in summary Fine Burger Co. is clearly a quality burger joint, and joins GBK and The Natural Burger Co. (in St Johns Wood) in the premiere league. I'd happily eat there again if I were in the area, but since it involves walking twice as far I doubt it'll be displacing GBK in my heart :)

If anyone has any burger joints they recommend us investigating, let's hear about them. The Oxford Organic Wossname is on the list to try. Ultimate Burger and Hamburger Union have already been firmly consigned to the Vauxhall Conference[**] of history.

[*] What are the proper names here ? The white kind is fresh buffalo mozzarella, what's the yellow kind which usually hangs out on pizzas called ? Wikipedia suggests I might mean "low-moisture mozzarella", which sounds like a total disaster of marketing to me.
[**] No, I'm sure it isn't called that any more.

Date: 2008-10-07 11:30 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Ooh, no. Looks interesting, though.

Date: 2008-10-07 12:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] phlebas.livejournal.com
Venison burger with cassis glaze. A little better done than I'd asked for, but very tasty. And the service was excellent as far as I can remember.

Date: 2008-10-07 01:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Blimey, that does sound exotic! I'm not actually that keen on venison myself (it's a bit too gamey), but am very curious about the idea of the cassis with it.

Date: 2008-10-07 03:40 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] valkyriekaren.livejournal.com
I've been there - it's pretty good, and the staff are friendly and helpful.

Date: 2008-10-07 11:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bopeepsheep.livejournal.com
That's why they don't market it as low-moisture mozzarella. :) The more yellowy kind has a longer shelf-life, being drier, and is usually made from cow's milk; sometimes the yellow colouring is added, sometimes it's more natural. Buffalo mozzarella can make a pizza way too soggy if you aren't careful with it, so it's useful that there is an alternative. Mmmm, now I want mozzarella to go with my avocado! :D

Date: 2008-10-07 11:44 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
I'm not disputing that the yellow kind has a place (which is mostly on pizza :)

I'm often disappointed in cafés if I order (say) a mozzarella and tomato sandwich as I assume it will be buffalo mozzarella. I could ask but (a) I forget, because I just assume buffalo mozzarella (b) I'm always slightly hampered by having no word for the yellow kind and (c) I fear looking like too much of a little princess with my cheese standards :)

Date: 2008-10-07 12:30 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bopeepsheep.livejournal.com
Oh, no, I know [you know] it has a place - but there isn't really a useful name for it because the only really significant difference is the milk used. Unless you go around saying 'buffalo mozzarella' and 'cow mozzarella', in which case you'll get funny looks in most places for being pretentious/princessy, I don't think there is any sensible way to distinguish them in regular use.

Nothing wrong with having cheese standards though.

PS avocado: beautifully ripe! Very yummy indeed with tuna and lime/black pepper. I think that's the best lunch I've had for some time. :D

Date: 2008-10-07 11:47 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ebee.livejournal.com
Whats wrong with ultimate burger?!!! they're great!! vege fab and milkshakes best in london! if i'd known of your quest i'd have taken you to a few other places. I now will.

Also, the speed of service of removing a used plate is something thats been heading here with more prescence since the EU borders changed- Eastern European custom of good service is never o leave something on the table- hard to get used to and tends to irritate brits a whole lot buy I'm convinced its a cultural thing..my nana went NUTS in Moscow with it.

Date: 2008-10-07 01:05 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Milkshakes best in London is quite a claim! I shall pass that on to ChrisC for consideration as he's the milkshake fiend.

Their meaty burgers are just like pub burgers if I recall correctly... greyish, homogenous, nothing like beef at all.

Date: 2008-10-07 03:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] valkyriekaren.livejournal.com
Milkshakes best in London? What, better than Ed's Easy Diner?

Date: 2008-10-07 11:51 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ulfilias.livejournal.com
I really like the one that is opersite Centre Point, near the Astoria....dunno what its name is though !

Date: 2008-10-07 11:54 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] secondhand-rick.livejournal.com
Onion rings are disappointing 90% or more of the time in my opinion. There is rarely enough onion flavour, which usually leaves them as just batter rings.

As for plate snatching, that seems to be an American thing. It's an interesting variant on service. I think waiters should be fairly unobtrusive, and one of the ways of achieving this is to visit your table as few times as possible; so from that perspective a single plate-clearing visit is preferable to multiple clearings. Also, a waiter visit to the table is an intrusion into the meal; certainly not something one wants while still (hopefully) enjoying their meal. In the US however it seems that leaving a finished plate (with what is now presumably considered garbage) on the table for any length of time is poor service.

In return, I shall consider patronising The Natural Burger Co. the next time I'm in St Johns Wood.

Date: 2008-10-07 01:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
If it's an American thing, they can keep it. Brits everywhere, take a stand! Hang on to your plates!

Date: 2008-10-07 07:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mrlloyd.livejournal.com
It was certainly epidemic when I was in NY for Condign's wedding. Barely had you put the last morsel to your lips when someone would be whisking away your plates. It happened in restaurants, bars, hotels (whisper it) even the Ritz...

Date: 2008-10-07 12:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bateleur.livejournal.com
and very flaccid onion inside

That's for people like me. I like my onion ring contents to be soft, sweet and strong flavoured.

The Natural Burger Co.

There's something deeply disturbing about that name. Of all the words I might use to describe a good burger "natural" would be way down nowhere near the list!

Date: 2008-10-07 01:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
The onion was flaccid in every sense: floppy and tasted of nothing at all.

You like your burgers unnatural?
Edited Date: 2008-10-07 01:03 pm (UTC)

Date: 2008-10-07 01:11 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bateleur.livejournal.com
You like your burgers unnatural?

Yes, in that I like them to be made of ground up cows.

I suppose it's possible that the natural world very occasionally grinds up cows, but it's not known to be a frequent occurrence!

Date: 2008-10-07 01:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Ah, I didn't parse it like that. A beef burger is ground-up beef. A natural burger is therefore ground-up natural stuff. Which is, of course, good[*].

Though I guess it's not actually a very useful distinction since the things which pack cheap burgers (like oatmeal) are also fairly natural.

[*] See also "herbal medicine can't do you any harm" and "chemicals are bad for you".

Date: 2008-10-07 02:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dr-bob.livejournal.com
the Vauxhall Conference[**] of history

Now called the Blue Square Premier; where both Oxford and Cambridge Uniteds are currently languishing.

Date: 2008-10-07 07:05 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cuthbertcross.livejournal.com
You like GBK? I must admit I've only eaten there once, but made the mistake of ordering a burger with the HARSHEST garlic mayo known to man. Still tasteable 24 hours later. Not brought myself to return since, though pssible it will be nice if I picked a different one......

Date: 2008-10-07 07:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dave [earth.li] (from livejournal.com)
The smoked chilli mayo is a lot better. I was also put off by the garlic mayo. Apparently it's made on the premises, I think they should just buy it, or get a new recipe.

Date: 2008-10-07 10:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Ah. I'm actually not a big fan of garlic mayo, so have never had it. Sounds like that was accidentally the right choice :)

Date: 2008-10-07 08:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sesquipedality.livejournal.com
Hmm. I tried the GBK in Oxford and was unimpressed.

There's a new place along Cowley Road you may be interested in.

Also, Weapons Grade Mozzarella? Hardly upmarket, is it?
Edited Date: 2008-10-07 08:31 pm (UTC)

Date: 2008-10-07 10:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
Out of interest, what unimpressed you about the Oxford GBK ?

The new place on Cowley Rd is the Oxford Organic Wossname (or at least, it may not be called anything like that, but is where I meant).

Date: 2008-10-07 10:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] venta.livejournal.com
By the way, I like your name for yellow mozzarella, and may adopt it.

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