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A couple of years ago I was reading Chocolat, and kept finding myself being jealous of the chocolate the lady made for customers. Then I'd realise that actually this wonderful nectar she was describing was only chocolate and thus not nearly as enticing as expected[*]. Chocolate's nice enough, but I can't get excited about it. Joanne Harris' descriptions of chocolate, however, made it sound exotic, mysterious and beautiful.
I've always found hot chocolate in particular a disappointment. In books, people talk about "a cup of chocolate" and it always sounds terribly appealing. Then I make or buy hot chocolate, and it turns out to be insipid, vaguely chocolate-flavoured hot milk. Hot chocolate should, in my imagination, be of a much thicker consistency.
Exactly once in my life (so far) have I had hot chocolate that lived up to the hype, in a café in Paris. I don't think the café was anything special, really, it was a chain with a vaguely North American Indian-sounding name and an orange fascia. ChrisC and I had brunch there and (having chosen tea) I stole almost all of his hot chocolate. Twice, chocolate vendors have come close - the Cafe Ritazza in Paddington Station once served me an almost-perfect cup that tasted of hazelnuts (a few weeks later they were back to selling blashy, bland rubbish), and the stripey tent sold me an almost-perfect cup on Sunday night at Glastonbury this year.
But that's it. So, the question I ask is this: how do you make nice hot chocolate ? It should be the consistency of thick cream, and a "blanket" should form rapidly on the top as it does on custard. It should be dark and rich, but not too sweet, and slightly cooler than hot.
Yes, I've tried using proper powdered chocolate (Green & Blacks, Charbonnel et Walker) and full-fat milk. The result is just thin. If you start putting more chocolate in, it gets bitter. I've mixed cream with chocolate when making cakes, and that doesn't have the right result either. I wondered if evaporation might be the trick, but that just results in less hot chocolate (which is mysteriously not noticeably thicker) - which is a shame, because it was a good theory. If shops made up vats of the stuff, it'd explain why you occasionally get a good cup.
If anyone has any idea how to make it, then please give me a clue. Otherwise, suggestions welcome of places which might serve it.
[*] Yeah, I know, I just lost 50% of readers. Just bear with me, ok?
I've always found hot chocolate in particular a disappointment. In books, people talk about "a cup of chocolate" and it always sounds terribly appealing. Then I make or buy hot chocolate, and it turns out to be insipid, vaguely chocolate-flavoured hot milk. Hot chocolate should, in my imagination, be of a much thicker consistency.
Exactly once in my life (so far) have I had hot chocolate that lived up to the hype, in a café in Paris. I don't think the café was anything special, really, it was a chain with a vaguely North American Indian-sounding name and an orange fascia. ChrisC and I had brunch there and (having chosen tea) I stole almost all of his hot chocolate. Twice, chocolate vendors have come close - the Cafe Ritazza in Paddington Station once served me an almost-perfect cup that tasted of hazelnuts (a few weeks later they were back to selling blashy, bland rubbish), and the stripey tent sold me an almost-perfect cup on Sunday night at Glastonbury this year.
But that's it. So, the question I ask is this: how do you make nice hot chocolate ? It should be the consistency of thick cream, and a "blanket" should form rapidly on the top as it does on custard. It should be dark and rich, but not too sweet, and slightly cooler than hot.
Yes, I've tried using proper powdered chocolate (Green & Blacks, Charbonnel et Walker) and full-fat milk. The result is just thin. If you start putting more chocolate in, it gets bitter. I've mixed cream with chocolate when making cakes, and that doesn't have the right result either. I wondered if evaporation might be the trick, but that just results in less hot chocolate (which is mysteriously not noticeably thicker) - which is a shame, because it was a good theory. If shops made up vats of the stuff, it'd explain why you occasionally get a good cup.
If anyone has any idea how to make it, then please give me a clue. Otherwise, suggestions welcome of places which might serve it.
[*] Yeah, I know, I just lost 50% of readers. Just bear with me, ok?
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Date: 2007-07-11 08:55 am (UTC)Yeah, I know it sounds vile, but it -is- nice.
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:09 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 09:02 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 09:07 am (UTC)Whether it would meet your slightly insane standards, I don't know :o)
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:44 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 09:46 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 09:48 am (UTC)Though alcohol and melting chocolate occasionally go weird together, so I'm likely to try and get the chocolate right by itself first. I wonder if amaretto would be nice in hot chocolate...
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Date: 2007-07-11 10:34 am (UTC)no subject
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:25 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 09:26 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 10:01 am (UTC)I speak as someone who's tried it. Once.
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:29 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 09:39 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 10:13 am (UTC)but yeah, in spain the hot choclate is thick & gloopy & does come with churros & seems to be a national pastime... we went to this one place in madrid that's open all night long selling pretty much only hot choc & churros.
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Date: 2007-07-11 10:43 am (UTC)The best we've had were in Granada, but Madrid does them pretty well too.
I've had a look in the shops here to work out how to make it at home. They seem to have some fairly expensive stuff which is already liquid and I guess you just warm it up, some ordinary looking cocoa powder, and lots of Nesquick.
I now have another excuse to do soem more investigating, or ask someone, and work out IF it is doable on a normal stove.
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Date: 2007-07-11 10:54 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 09:29 am (UTC)I will also add that the right chocolate is exotic, mysterious and beautiful. If you've ever near L'Artisan du Chocolat for example, you'd be doing yourself a serious disservice to not stop and try one of their fondants. Ohmygod melts into liquid luscious heaveninyourmouth.
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:36 am (UTC)*I have no idea how this word is actually spelt
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:39 am (UTC)(And I think you're right, it's "roux".)
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Date: 2007-07-11 10:08 am (UTC)Which was also the name of the character from Chocolat that Johnny Depp played in the film version. Yay Johnny Depp :-).
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:40 am (UTC)1) A milk drink flavoured weakly with chocolate.
2) A very sweet hot drink made with cocoa and lots of sugar.
3) A drink made with melted chocolate and steamed milk.
It sounds like the stuff you're fond of is an instance of 3. The trick to making it is not to make 1 or 2 instead. Aside from milk (and/or cream) the other ingredient is chocolate. Not cocoa. Not powder or granules or syrup. Actual chocolate.
To make the stuff, melt it in a pan then add steamed milk gradually until you have the consistency you want. If, like me, you don't have a milk steamer then it's fine to use a microwave or another pan. Or even the same pan by adding cold milk if you're really careful (boil any of it and the whole lot will taste slightly of boiled milk).
And in case it's not obvious: the flavour you get depends on the chocolate you use. Something like Menier is good if you can find it, though most people would want to add some sugar. Bournville is OK for most tastes, but you might find it too sweet. Experiment to work out what you like!
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:43 am (UTC)I'll pick up some chocolate when I go to the shops today and give it a try!
(You melt chocolate in a pan, rather than over water ? Doesn't it burn/stick ?)
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Date: 2007-07-11 09:57 am (UTC)Well, you know what I'm like with cooking techniques! No, it doesn't burn or stick provided you use a non-stick pan and get the heat exactly right. Or you can add a little of the milk early to make it easier. But if all that sounds too precarious then yes, do it over water.
Actually last time I made this kind of hot chocolate I just microwaves a pile of broken up squares. This also works, but has its own hazards...
Incidentally, I notice Wikipedia thinks Menier died out decades ago. Someone is still making their chocolate though. (This stuff).
I'm under the impression that (say) Green & Black's hot chocolate is real chocolate, grated up
Ha! No.
<reaches for jar>
Organic Raw Cane Sugar and Organic Cocoa Powder are the top two ingredients. It contains 16.3% chocolate.
It makes a lovely cup of (2), though. :-)
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Date: 2007-07-11 11:11 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-07-11 06:38 pm (UTC)I buy this stuff at Portobello Market. You can probably get it online, but the site's under construction at the moment.
You *have* to make it in a pan with milk, or it won't go as thick and fluffy.
But it's exactly what you're after, and comes in a bajillion flavours.
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Date: 2007-07-11 10:50 pm (UTC)I don't much care for it, myself.