Prefab molded hamburgers, I don't want a bite of yours

[venta]

Well, following discussion on ar_gemlad's LJ last week, ChrisC and I learned about a new posh-burger chain. We have been vaguely questing for quality burgers for some time, and have thus far developed the opinion that practically nothing lives up to GBK's standards. However, when secondhand_rick recommends a joint, you take the recommendation seriously...

We experimented with the Finchley Road branch of the Fine Burger Co., which hangs out with various other fooderies and a cinema in the O2 centre.

I commented at the time that the place wasn't really being judged against an arbitrary standard, it was being constantly compared to GBK. The natural corollary, of course, is that things risk criticism for being different rather than necessarily poorer.

Having realised that I couldn't have my standard burger order (rare beefburger, mozzarella, avocado) I opted for what Fine calls an Italian: mozzarella and pesto. As Secondhand_Rick had promised, they did indeed ask how I'd like my burger cooked (and they even actually cooked it rare as well). I was a little disappointed to find that the mozzarella was the yellow kind not the white kind[*], and slightly frightened of the enormous frills of lettuce protruding a long way of out the bun. The lettuce looked pretty, but I removed and ate it separately to render the burger tractable.

Fine's menu tells you lots of interesting stuff about the food and its provenance (which I approve of), including bigging up their tempura onion rings. We ordered them with high hopes, but I actually found them slightly disappointing. The batter had a thick, doughy layer beneath the crispy outside and very flaccid onion inside.

I rarely mention service in restaurants unless it's outstandingly good or outstandingly bad, simply because it tends to be something I'm not that picky about. Fine Burgers seat you, but expect you to place your orders at the bar so you'd think there's not a long to go wrong.

Our food arrived commendably promptly, and the instant ChrisC ate the last bite of his burger his plate was whisked away from him. I, eating slightly more slowly, hadn't yet finished. As the last bite of my burger neared my mouth a staff member appeared by my side and said cursorily "May I take your plate?" as he reached for it. I asked if I might be allowed to finish my chips first, and he agreed and went away.

I had assumed the guy was just over-eager, but as I scooped up my last handful of chips a different waiter appeared and snatched my plate, leaving me barely time to lunge for my napkin to wipe my greasy fingers. Half the tables were standing empty; there was no need to harry customers out the door.

So, how does it hold up to the inevitable comparison ? The burgers themselves are as good, and very well-cooked, but the range of toppings isn't as large or as interesting as GBK. And I'm still bitter about the avocados. Their buns are extremely seedy which I ordinarily regard as a good thing in bread, but I think I prefer my burger buns plain. They offer a choice of chunky chips or fries, and do onion rings, where at GBK you get chunky chips or nothing. For those who care about such things, GBK's burger range is much more extensive for vegetarians (it's also more extensive in general, though I don't hold specialisation against Fine: they do what they do well).

Pricewise it's fairly comparable, possibly slightly more expensive than I'm used to (two burgers, fries, onion rings, a Tiger beer and a banana milkshake were of the order of £27. Yes, that's expensive for burgers. But the burger you get as part of the £5 deal in Wetherspoons bears no relation at all to these burgers.)

So in summary Fine Burger Co. is clearly a quality burger joint, and joins GBK and The Natural Burger Co. (in St Johns Wood) in the premiere league. I'd happily eat there again if I were in the area, but since it involves walking twice as far I doubt it'll be displacing GBK in my heart :)

If anyone has any burger joints they recommend us investigating, let's hear about them. The Oxford Organic Wossname is on the list to try. Ultimate Burger and Hamburger Union have already been firmly consigned to the Vauxhall Conference[**] of history.

[*] What are the proper names here ? The white kind is fresh buffalo mozzarella, what's the yellow kind which usually hangs out on pizzas called ? Wikipedia suggests I might mean "low-moisture mozzarella", which sounds like a total disaster of marketing to me.
[**] No, I'm sure it isn't called that any more.

Comments

[phlebas.livejournal.com]

Have you tried the place in Camden?

[bopeepsheep.livejournal.com]

That's why they don't market it as low-moisture mozzarella. :) The more yellowy kind has a longer shelf-life, being drier, and is usually made from cow's milk; sometimes the yellow colouring is added, sometimes it's more natural. Buffalo mozzarella can make a pizza way too soggy if you aren't careful with it, so it's useful that there is an alternative. Mmmm, now I want mozzarella to go with my avocado! :D

[ebee.livejournal.com]

Whats wrong with ultimate burger?!!! they're great!! vege fab and milkshakes best in london! if i'd known of your quest i'd have taken you to a few other places. I now will.

Also, the speed of service of removing a used plate is something thats been heading here with more prescence since the EU borders changed- Eastern European custom of good service is never o leave something on the table- hard to get used to and tends to irritate brits a whole lot buy I'm convinced its a cultural thing..my nana went NUTS in Moscow with it.

[ulfilias.livejournal.com]

I really like the one that is opersite Centre Point, near the Astoria....dunno what its name is though !

[secondhand-rick.livejournal.com]

Onion rings are disappointing 90% or more of the time in my opinion. There is rarely enough onion flavour, which usually leaves them as just batter rings.

As for plate snatching, that seems to be an American thing. It's an interesting variant on service. I think waiters should be fairly unobtrusive, and one of the ways of achieving this is to visit your table as few times as possible; so from that perspective a single plate-clearing visit is preferable to multiple clearings. Also, a waiter visit to the table is an intrusion into the meal; certainly not something one wants while still (hopefully) enjoying their meal. In the US however it seems that leaving a finished plate (with what is now presumably considered garbage) on the table for any length of time is poor service.

In return, I shall consider patronising The Natural Burger Co. the next time I'm in St Johns Wood.

[bateleur.livejournal.com]

and very flaccid onion inside

That's for people like me. I like my onion ring contents to be soft, sweet and strong flavoured.

The Natural Burger Co.

There's something deeply disturbing about that name. Of all the words I might use to describe a good burger "natural" would be way down nowhere near the list!

[dr-bob.livejournal.com]

the Vauxhall Conference[**] of history

Now called the Blue Square Premier; where both Oxford and Cambridge Uniteds are currently languishing.

[cuthbertcross.livejournal.com]

You like GBK? I must admit I've only eaten there once, but made the mistake of ordering a burger with the HARSHEST garlic mayo known to man. Still tasteable 24 hours later. Not brought myself to return since, though pssible it will be nice if I picked a different one......

[sesquipedality.livejournal.com]

Hmm. I tried the GBK in Oxford and was unimpressed.

There's a new place along Cowley Road you may be interested in.

Also, Weapons Grade Mozzarella? Hardly upmarket, is it?